| Action Directe | |
|---|---|
The route follows five bolts which are visible on the photo (quickdraws are clipped to the fourth and fifth bolt) and ends with the belay anchor (not visible). The next bolted route to the right, Feiste Fäuste, follows the overhanging crack and is much easier (grade IX). |
|
| Location | Frankenjura, Germany |
| Climbing Area | Krottenseer Forst (crag Waldkopf) |
| Route Type | Sport Climb |
| Rating | 9a (French) or XI (UIAA) |
| FFA | Wolfgang Güllich, 1991. |
Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's. The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence. Simpson and Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.
The repeat ascents were by:
While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a (5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI.
It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific technique needed for this route.
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